tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2697847977902840062024-03-14T05:57:25.559-07:00Wood Destruction by a Woodscrub<b>woodscrub</b> /wʊd-skruhb/ –noun
<ul><li>A complete n00b at woodworking who nevertheless has to write about it!</li></ul>Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.comBlogger141125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-34317818668719769012017-04-25T15:13:00.000-07:002017-04-25T15:13:14.855-07:001950's Craftsman Lathe RestorationI don't know how I missed posting this, since I did it back in 2010.<br />
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If I can remember more details, I may do a proper writeup. But for now, enjoy the pics.<br />
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<br />Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-10340636438521685892017-03-05T07:34:00.005-08:002017-03-05T07:34:58.939-08:00Chinese 3040 CNC MachineI can't believe I haven't done anything about this machine I picked up a little while back. I did a quick ugly video though, so here it is.<br />
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Once I get to spend some time on it, I'll post more.<br />
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Here's the video:<br />
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/NGfsYIPK3FY/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/NGfsYIPK3FY?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
<br />Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-63039034319925209372017-01-06T13:16:00.001-08:002017-01-06T13:18:40.701-08:00Upgraded Table Saw with Fence and Router Extension<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjia15jX3O2aXsG4lZ6i_bvmlMy6NaKuPFT9WAuxJDgtJnCDKVR8lFJeb3Ks_C3-zneJm2uHCyCvULBkCW8_budQPazSqldq3VjLs3_Ig396ck3rLCgdZIMzYn-LQNmuakX_cUXUPe3bKk/s1600/sawupgrade2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjia15jX3O2aXsG4lZ6i_bvmlMy6NaKuPFT9WAuxJDgtJnCDKVR8lFJeb3Ks_C3-zneJm2uHCyCvULBkCW8_budQPazSqldq3VjLs3_Ig396ck3rLCgdZIMzYn-LQNmuakX_cUXUPe3bKk/s400/sawupgrade2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I'm not sure how this happened. I did these upgrades to my saw back in October of 2014 but never posted about them.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>I have no idea where all the pics I took went either. I installed this wonderful Delta T-Square fence (Amazon, $150 or something), but there was some drilling involved. Some fiddling and such. And I documented with pics, but I can't find the pics. I just found these two I took when I was finished.<br />
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Anyway, the router table extension is from MLCS, the Delta fence is from Delta (duh), and all of it is on my old Craftsman contractor's saw. Made this saw a million percent more useful!<br />
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Oh, and sorry for the distorted photos. No, the saw is not all warped like it looks here. Not sure what Nokia was thinking when they made the camera on the phone I used at the time.<br />
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<br />Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-84943899193950391522016-09-01T13:38:00.001-07:002016-09-01T13:38:29.189-07:00Medicine Cabinet Shelves<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Just a quick post because I haven't posted in a while...<br />
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The cheap plastic shelves that were in my medicine chest were cracking and sagging. I made new ones from scraps of birdseye maple and aluminum bar stock. Finished with spray poly. Took no time at all and looks great.<br />
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I would have preferred to replace the whole cabinet, but this is a rental. So rusty old cabinet it is!Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-18436877391436845312016-03-06T08:52:00.001-08:002016-03-06T08:52:08.346-08:00Craftsman 10" Bandsaw Bearings<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPvHh7Tq2Tm9PGM77ag6qF04l4EnDz7StHH7hL7OwKpM3PAQNgPfentBgtut88SY5DkjH27Gzd33C2X5n3EE-j1qHP9snxHh4IACVRnC5qHdg3VsDS0fC-lr340a3PyQpsotZSoAvaYGU/s1600/BSBearings-oldvsnew.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPvHh7Tq2Tm9PGM77ag6qF04l4EnDz7StHH7hL7OwKpM3PAQNgPfentBgtut88SY5DkjH27Gzd33C2X5n3EE-j1qHP9snxHh4IACVRnC5qHdg3VsDS0fC-lr340a3PyQpsotZSoAvaYGU/s320/BSBearings-oldvsnew.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New bearing on the left, old bearing on the right.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Over the past year or so I had stopped using my Craftsman 10" bandsaw. I never thought about why, but I cringed a bit whenever I thought about using it. Turns out that the thing had gotten pogressively noisier. But like boiling a frog, I tolerated it for way too long.<br />
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Here's how I fixed it.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>I've posted a bunch about this bandsaw over the years. How to tune it, adjust it, etc. Here are links to the previous posts if you need to catch up:<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://blog.woodscrub.info/2008/01/craftsman-10-band-saw.html" target="_blank">Initial Review</a></li>
<li><a href="http://blog.woodscrub.info/2008/01/tuning-craftsman-10-band-saw.html" target="_blank">Tuning</a></li>
<li><a href="http://blog.woodscrub.info/2009/01/craftsman-bandsaw-tensioning-with.html" target="_blank">Tensioning the blade</a></li>
<li><a href="http://blog.woodscrub.info/2009/01/best-pgrade-to-my-craftsman-10-band-saw.html" target="_blank">Replacing the blade</a></li>
</ul>
I'm still very happy with this inexpensive little saw. And if you prefer to not have the black and gray Craftsman livery, it's actually a rebadged Rikon. So you can get it in green and white instead if you like.<br />
<br />
In troubleshooting the noise from the saw, I first loosened the six blade guide bearings and moved them away from the blade. I then plugged the saw back in and fired it up. Super quiet, just like it used to be. Inspecting the blade showed scrapes on the sides from a bearing that isn't turning as it should. Bingo!<br />
<br />
Looking on the Craftsman website for replacement bearings, I found they will sell them to me for $6 each. That's $36. Not too bad, but I had to wonder if there were any others out there. The Craftsman ones didn't have an ABEC rating (but I would assume that it's adequate), or even state if they were rubber sealed or shielded. The originals have markings so I used those as a basis for my search. The originals are 6262 bearings, 19mm across, 6mm thick, and with a 6mm opening.<br />
<br />
I found a likely candidate, and ordered ABEC-3 and rubber sealed. They arrived last week, so today I did the install.<br />
<br />
First, I pulled off an original bearing and did a comparison. The new and old bearings are dimensionally identical. I pulled one assembly apart so you can see what's involved.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaBUtI9BvVokNCbDYKpdVH8iLGfrIEmQjNqNwvKrlUDG6mDLBdEA09jzI5o0zJICiVGsEbJpIckf8v4y-Y7fjRXZVHq3dZwJQtmDdbWwYemDy76OUU9MKiR463aAaH-G-D-0bqGA_w6KI/s1600/BSBearings-assembly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaBUtI9BvVokNCbDYKpdVH8iLGfrIEmQjNqNwvKrlUDG6mDLBdEA09jzI5o0zJICiVGsEbJpIckf8v4y-Y7fjRXZVHq3dZwJQtmDdbWwYemDy76OUU9MKiR463aAaH-G-D-0bqGA_w6KI/s320/BSBearings-assembly.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
In all the photos, the black ones are the new bearings. The tan you see on the old bearings is caked sawdust or resin. In the above photo, the silver thing standing up is the carrier. It slides into the saw and the shaft is threaded into the hole on the side. The washer goes between the saw and the bearing. Do NOT lose that washer, or replace it if you do. The bearing race will scrape against the saw if you don't have that washer holding it away.<br />
<br />
Once I got all the old bearings off, I found that two wouldn't spin at all. The rest were all rough. Like there was gravel inside instead of ball bearings.<br />
<br />
I installed the new ones, readjusted the bearings (double dolla bill ya'll!) and did a test cut. MUCH better! While this saw will never be as quiet as a nice big professional saw, it is back to its original noise levels when new.<br />
<br />
I mentioned I bought 100 of these. I'm going to run these new bearings in my saw for a time. If they work as well as I expect, I'll offer up 6 bearing kits for sale cheap either through eBay, Etsy, or on Woodnet. I'll decide when I get to that point. You can buy them yourself, of course. Look for a quality manufacturer (mine are HCH) and you want 6262-2RS bearings. Confirm they're 6x19x6mm. ABEC-3 is about right for tolerances for this relatively slow application.<br />
Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-77507153254775983372015-01-04T07:12:00.000-08:002015-01-05T16:31:04.720-08:00Harbor Freight 4" x 36" Belt / 6" Disk Sander 97181 - Woodscrub's Mods <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrWeG3bdEXupZtnRvugohLCdrUHO5G4Rp29fxtglHAV3phXkHxgPXhDwutSO-wDT5R8ZgLNvWkEkPiXdf-HQkZ660wKgCX_CPw-r-FbMNMGDwOCAQEGEBwlHhm2vX7G0CumlDz5sdwQ1U/s1600/97181-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrWeG3bdEXupZtnRvugohLCdrUHO5G4Rp29fxtglHAV3phXkHxgPXhDwutSO-wDT5R8ZgLNvWkEkPiXdf-HQkZ660wKgCX_CPw-r-FbMNMGDwOCAQEGEBwlHhm2vX7G0CumlDz5sdwQ1U/s1600/97181-01.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Straight out of the box. The sander came with the sanding belt pre-installed<br />
and tracking correctly!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
This is my second one of these sanders. I had one around 10 years ago, and over time had modified it to work better. Then I sold it to move back to California from Colorado. So it was time for a new one, and I can modify it all at once!<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a>I know I could save all this trouble by purchasing a better quality machine to start with. But would I really? Looking at other more expensive units at the store show that I would still need to perform some upgrades to get the most out of them. And for $50 when on sale, the value of this unit can't be beat. <br />
<br />
<br />
The first thing I did after taking it out of the box was button it down, then fire it up. The belt comes pre-installed (leaving the thing tensioned while in the box seems like a bad idea to me, but whatever), and to my surprise it was tracking straight! No adjustments needed. That was odd...<br />
<br />
The vibration from Sir Lumpy Belt was there, as is to be expected from a machine shipped with an inexpensive V-belt under tension. So I removed the belt cover to inspect it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgseCGKMUrPsXyBqSkUHW4iegWvsgEmUGiSJypXUsIeBjaFMIEU6h2S9vLhm0nBI0sIXzB2gItegqna0bLhOWSE6p82RLp-XJJ2iEM0hvP76xtxsbelwGB5aMDjQyUr8FBwnE5wGyZgP3w/s1600/97181-02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgseCGKMUrPsXyBqSkUHW4iegWvsgEmUGiSJypXUsIeBjaFMIEU6h2S9vLhm0nBI0sIXzB2gItegqna0bLhOWSE6p82RLp-XJJ2iEM0hvP76xtxsbelwGB5aMDjQyUr8FBwnE5wGyZgP3w/s1600/97181-02.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
Another surprise was finding the pulleys were <a href="http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/coplanar?s=t" target="_blank">coplanar</a> to each other. That means the belt is tracking straight without bending to get on either pulley. If yours isn't, there are plenty of instructions on the web on how to correct that. But basically, you have 3 adjustments. Top pulley position on the shaft, bottom pulley position on the shaft, and rotating the motor on its adjustment bolts. Tinker with those three things until your pulleys line up perfectly. Checking is done with a straight edge. It should touch two points on each pulley at the same time.<br />
<br />
I pulled the belt off and you can see just how lumpy it was. Each time one of those lumps went over a pulley, the entire machine would move. That causes an insane amount of vibration. The solution is to replace the belt with a link belt.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEDeZZ5Fn1Vv3YgFxlpmlZt1LuMQ2TnBpnyB-RPGs9Kqcj9bMWLcgYd_IkoB738wb8nTqwraYgqd1hX21DTqABsFx3JMrrlzT6T9mssJvRP83woJrFy30K4N18Kn7ZDqXhswoyltNjjnQ/s1600/97181-03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEDeZZ5Fn1Vv3YgFxlpmlZt1LuMQ2TnBpnyB-RPGs9Kqcj9bMWLcgYd_IkoB738wb8nTqwraYgqd1hX21DTqABsFx3JMrrlzT6T9mssJvRP83woJrFy30K4N18Kn7ZDqXhswoyltNjjnQ/s1600/97181-03.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately the most common sized belt (and the one that Harbor Freight sells) is too big to fit inside the belt cover. This is a safety hazard, so I recommend finding the smaller link belt first, before cracking it open. I was this far, and actually needed to use it right now for a project, so exposed belt (aka the Finger-Eater) it is!<br />
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To remove the rear cover you have to remove the upper pulley, so I got to go through the coplanar adjustments anyway. Sigh.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM6OH5rpI22dRwid1tVnl_0YebteOdvd6m0r9By5Wm4agISDFO981PLBp4ugYmpRRfJVxL2VjqvtogxFii-pH9Kvgq8rDpjLYTq2TXlXiQWq2hpji6oW6tqPKijCHKFPFjwCs-gdqvZw0/s1600/97181-04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM6OH5rpI22dRwid1tVnl_0YebteOdvd6m0r9By5Wm4agISDFO981PLBp4ugYmpRRfJVxL2VjqvtogxFii-pH9Kvgq8rDpjLYTq2TXlXiQWq2hpji6oW6tqPKijCHKFPFjwCs-gdqvZw0/s1600/97181-04.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
The machine starts looking a little bare with everything removed. But this is a great time to eyeball the machine. Get familiar with its components. Use the manual to identify the different bolts and adjustments while everything is easy to see and find.<br />
<br />
Putting on a link belt is always an exercise in frustration for me. There are two ways to do it, and to my mind, neither are satisfactory. But there's no other option. So guesstimating is it. I put the motor at its smallest adjustment, then loosely wrap the link belt around it to figure out where to "cut". You don't actually cut, of course, you separate the links.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAms4IBWVUqK9jFywKUCmNkyzJfY_kcnfE94kzVfJAHYNoH-k4_0xZ9H4TEn0bSa5Rr1QQyw_wFIC29I6qdEXeyOrYH7UJwJFKyjXIAFAMwt_QdcIkh1_uYkRVMsQ0BqVMXxk9xJUSuCk/s1600/97181-05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAms4IBWVUqK9jFywKUCmNkyzJfY_kcnfE94kzVfJAHYNoH-k4_0xZ9H4TEn0bSa5Rr1QQyw_wFIC29I6qdEXeyOrYH7UJwJFKyjXIAFAMwt_QdcIkh1_uYkRVMsQ0BqVMXxk9xJUSuCk/s1600/97181-05.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
Repeat until you have it snug. Not tight, you don't want to damage the bearings, just snug. I also like it to be loose enough that the belt will slip if there's a problem before the motor stops. Belts are cheaper than motors if something gets jammed. <br />
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In the running photo, you can see just how exposed that belt is. I really don't like it being that exposed, but I don't have much choice until I get the smaller link belt.<br />
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I still can't believe that the machine is as smooth as it is now. My old one needed the rollers for the belt to be machined/trued up. But that's not the case here. So I can leave that all alone and move to the disk.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkTdbWPaNmPXHDprlTzw-RvAfEbtfaRBVd94epJ9AMM6-QgJNtBhAC8Bs-nlPC7E8tHdsgdtNEstj8n6KZJ9swS6eWC4A0Ze5CcgjBNZEVbyCwapNUhcatGsgu9JPwTqZ8i5xkEAHBf1Y/s1600/97181-06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkTdbWPaNmPXHDprlTzw-RvAfEbtfaRBVd94epJ9AMM6-QgJNtBhAC8Bs-nlPC7E8tHdsgdtNEstj8n6KZJ9swS6eWC4A0Ze5CcgjBNZEVbyCwapNUhcatGsgu9JPwTqZ8i5xkEAHBf1Y/s1600/97181-06.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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The surface of the disk was quite wobbly. No quality improvements there, since my old one was the same way.<br />
<br />
I started the machine, then gently applied a bastard file to it. If you push hard, you'll get a catch and the machine will fling your file ... somewhere. Hopefully not at you, but it's a possibility. I learned this the hard way on my first sander. So I managed to not do it this time. It took around 20 minutes of gently filing away the high spots to get a smooth flat surface that spins true.<br />
<br />
The table for the disk was pretty gnarly. The edge that goes against the disk looked like it had been cut by a two year old child.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlQBL6qBUv7CFN5VFWsBjTcnqAPI4k9fXi9GkunjiYnb0KiNwqv8WikX_NVGat3q9krEhmP30HiP1BnMhMCs_A6PjAHmY55i2p8SbAW8kagIseuxfy3fipufdUt2Vh4ZUyw78smtNZ0t0/s1600/97181-07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlQBL6qBUv7CFN5VFWsBjTcnqAPI4k9fXi9GkunjiYnb0KiNwqv8WikX_NVGat3q9krEhmP30HiP1BnMhMCs_A6PjAHmY55i2p8SbAW8kagIseuxfy3fipufdUt2Vh4ZUyw78smtNZ0t0/s1600/97181-07.jpg" height="200" width="118" /></a></div>
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Simply filing the edge wasn't going to be enough, so I used the belt sander itself to clean up the edge. Since the table is just aluminum, it was quick work. After straightening the edge, I lapped the table's surface on the belt sander, then polished with progressive grits of sand paper. A quick coat of wax made it nice and slippery.<br />
<br />
The manufacturer of these sanders for Harbor Freight really has been listening. One of the most annoying adjustments, to me anyway, was the punch marks to create a friction fit for the table's bracket. I would have to re-punch the dimples every time I changed the position of the table because it would get sloppy. That would lead to inaccurate work.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPcXPPwwFhje1wng_VO-SdkwnjWKxswfG5G1BJvjBlvFsXnA0a66drke8cJ9w3IwuoRCfNrjxNTdA55BbEmtXGgYVF0iUMBQj1c4lTzuDmdN1nvgzGBXZ0VWEe-EtqHaoxGfs13L4vh1s/s1600/97181-08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPcXPPwwFhje1wng_VO-SdkwnjWKxswfG5G1BJvjBlvFsXnA0a66drke8cJ9w3IwuoRCfNrjxNTdA55BbEmtXGgYVF0iUMBQj1c4lTzuDmdN1nvgzGBXZ0VWEe-EtqHaoxGfs13L4vh1s/s1600/97181-08.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now they've replaced those dimples with set screws! I was ecstatic!!!<br />
<br />
I will work with them as-is for a little while, but I'm considering milling in some flats for the set screws to really lock down on. They may be fine as-is though, so we'll see.<br />
<br />
The machine came with some dust covers for the disk sander. I have no idea how to attach them, since none of the holes lined up with anything else. No biggie, it only had a tiny little 3/4" dust port at the bottom. But I liked that it would also act as a finger guard. When I replace the belt covers I'll find a way to mount that, and I'll post updates.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggZqrpa4AS7Z_LoCQEn-g-XcLRjouXwxf5g6vjof1rAbxelZwNl_gV3G0qu_3ovB3iSKGSHUHGEkxhueXfrplVQR-0JoCz0QPP606tom2qyJHVXDS21165FRtOMYmprqrtDuN85MW6gsM/s1600/97181-09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggZqrpa4AS7Z_LoCQEn-g-XcLRjouXwxf5g6vjof1rAbxelZwNl_gV3G0qu_3ovB3iSKGSHUHGEkxhueXfrplVQR-0JoCz0QPP606tom2qyJHVXDS21165FRtOMYmprqrtDuN85MW6gsM/s1600/97181-09.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The finished product.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The unit now is smooth, quiet, and powerful. I do recommend dumping the sanding materials that come with the unit and installing better quality sandpaper. The HF belts have a really bad seam that you can feel when you're using them. I left this one on just long enough to build it. It's going in the trash. The disk is a better self-adhesive paper to begin with. Removing self adhesive paper sucks.<br />
<br />
Enjoy and remember to get the smaller 3/8" belts. Grizzly has one <a href="http://grizzly.com/products/Power-Twist-V-Belt-3-8-x-2-m/T21991" target="_blank">here</a>. Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-56364360603063694182014-10-05T08:42:00.001-07:002014-10-05T08:42:26.023-07:00Ambrosia Maple Side Table<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH7hfU-7VYncqibdVSOrlAfkM8yblHOL9JOvEXmLYZeuqEYB_NkMtY3iZk1deaedOI4dkCF_cE3OQmzzOfcaBtUe48NB2r7-XVEOVjtBVuIzV1P8AGaXix-hisWReF4mAdPkM9eeedECI/s1600/sidetable01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH7hfU-7VYncqibdVSOrlAfkM8yblHOL9JOvEXmLYZeuqEYB_NkMtY3iZk1deaedOI4dkCF_cE3OQmzzOfcaBtUe48NB2r7-XVEOVjtBVuIzV1P8AGaXix-hisWReF4mAdPkM9eeedECI/s1600/sidetable01.jpg" height="255" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfect for that morning coffee.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
This table uses an oval shaped top, mitered box, and tapered legs.
All made from a single board of ambrosia maple. It also has inlay of
padauk and walnut in the top, and is finished with <a href="https://www.formbys.com/products/tung_oil/" target="_blank">Formby's Tung Oil Finish</a>. <br /><br />
<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
After years of moving around and not having a proper workshop (or
even a "shoparage"), I'm finally in a place I can work. Yeah, it's a one
car garage. Yeah, I have to share with the washer/dryer which for some
stupid reason is out by the garage door, so I have to keep the shop
floor clear for laundry duty. And yeah, it's a condo/townhome, not a
true house, with crappy HOA rules and everything.<br />
<br />
But it's something.<br />
<br />
So
to celebrate, I decided to tackle a small side table. Sitting on the
couch wasn't very comfortable since there was no place to rest a drink. A
large heavy table wouldn't fit there, as it would block a walkway. So
it had to be narrow. I've never done anything with tapered legs before,
but thought this would be an opportunity to do something a little more
delicate than I'm used to.<br />
<br />
I'll start off by saying that I didn't draw this out first, like I should have. This was all in my head, and done over 2 months. So I made lots of mistakes that wouldn't have happened if I'd planned properly.<br />
<br />
First I drew two curves on the board for the top to create the inlays. I cut these out on the band saw, one at a time. I did the padauk strip first, then after the glue dried, I did the walnut.<br />
<ul>
<li><b>Screw-Up #1</b><br />I didn't create a kerf the same width as the wood I was inlaying. This caused an offset when gluing them together. You can see where the two curves meet that they don't quite align.</li>
</ul>
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The process was sound, and my worst fears of the glue failing and the padauk ripping the board a part never materialized. The mallet was to give the pieces taps to keep them planar while tightening the clamps. They kept wanting to shift. Previous glue ups taught me to expect that.<br />
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I used my cheap little <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/no-4-jack-and-mini-plane-set-92553.html" target="_blank">Harbor Freight block plane</a> (they call it a mini plane) to clean up the inlays.<br />
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While that was drying, I made the box to frame up the legs and top.<br />
<ul>
<li><b>Screw-Up #2</b><br />In my head I had wanted to make the top flip up to expose a little cubby to store the TV remotes. I realized after slotting the box sides to hold a bottom that the top would weigh as much as the rest of the table. That wouldn't exactly make for a stable situation when lifting the top to access the cubby. So I gave up on that idea, but the slots remained.</li>
</ul>
I love this little cheapo strap clamp. I've used it so many times over the years, I can't imagine doing without. The white plastic rectangle is UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight) plastic. There isn't much that sticks to UHMW plastic, so it makes a great glue up surface. The company I work for uses it in their manufacturing process, so I have a nearly unlimited supply of scraps.<br />
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I used a taper jig from Woodcraft on the table saw to cut the leg tapers. I'm not very happy with this thing. It's the first time I used it and probably the last.<br />
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It honestly scared the crap out of me.<br />
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It's too flimsy to be stable. Pushing on the handle at the bottom allowed the forward end to tip up if it wanted. And the wood wasn't held by anything except the toe at the bottom. So it was a comedy of me holding the handle of the jig, a pushstick to keep the wood from flipping up at me, all while avoiding the sharp spinning thing in the middle. And to top it off, the toe is steel, and far too large. Can't make the tapered end less than 1/2" wide. And even at that size I was freaking out that my hand would slip and bump the steel toe into my blade, damaging both and possibly injuring me.<br />
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This isn't unique to the Woodcraft version of this jig. Many vendors sell the same jig, just in a different color or with a different badge. I think a better solution is to make our own jigs. I can use pine and some hinges and get better results.<br />
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I used Formby's Tung Oil finish for the table when it was all done. I liked the color it gave the wood. Not sure about durability, but it's a repairable finish (according to the manufacturer), so not a big deal. If it becomes an issue, I can apply lacquer later. But 6 coats of the tung finish, followed by lots of wax, should be good.<br />
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<ul>
<li><b>Screw-Up #3</b><br />You can't see it in the photos, and it's pretty tough to see in person too. But I mounted one leg backwards. The taper is outside, not inside. </li>
<li><b>Screw-Up #4</b><br />The top is too small for the rectangular box underneath. I should have made it far shallower, or made it an oval like the top.</li>
</ul>
I didn't take any photos of cutting the top into an oval, but I did the two tacks and a string method to draw the oval on the board, and the band saw to cut it out. I think a proper oval jig with my router would be better for next time. Edge treatment was a common roman ogee bit on my router table. <br />
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I'm overall happy with the end result, and nobody will notice my screw-ups but me. But I've learned that I can't work out of my head. I need to lay it out on paper so I can catch flaws BEFORE I start building.Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-12045098120491532412014-09-22T11:39:00.003-07:002014-09-22T11:39:40.071-07:00Stanley No 70 Box Scraper late 1800's<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGMPdXjmQu0MpvB-Ap3XLYbBSHXjRte1XnoOoVSqC20dY7LHOZXwWmPl8mP73ipzbPtJc2f21Q1VHuRevtip5sVpfvLjcqpmDouhhgM_AoHxLGpLM1roBrXQIW0iEsgtR7MUewg3CFSac/s1600/boxscraper01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGMPdXjmQu0MpvB-Ap3XLYbBSHXjRte1XnoOoVSqC20dY7LHOZXwWmPl8mP73ipzbPtJc2f21Q1VHuRevtip5sVpfvLjcqpmDouhhgM_AoHxLGpLM1roBrXQIW0iEsgtR7MUewg3CFSac/s1600/boxscraper01.jpg" height="320" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stanley Rule & Level Co.</td></tr>
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I picked this up a few years ago and played with it some without doing much to sharpen it. This weekend, I decided to sharpen and hone the blade and see what I could do with it.</div>
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<a name='more'></a>It wasn't terribly expensive, I think I paid $15 for it. It was cool and unique, so I grabbed it.<br />
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It's pretty beat up, but fully functional. Dating it to 1874-1884 due to the logo on the blade, "Stanley Rule & Level Co." The handle is tight, as is the ferrule. A little worse for wear, but still good.</div>
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So what is a box scraper? Prior to corrugated boxes, foam peanuts, etc, items used to ship in wooden crates, and often the crates were reused. A box scraper was used to quickly remove any labels or markings from the wood. Especially if you didn't want to ship your widgit in a competitor's crate. So it used a curved iron and sole to allow for wood that isn't flat, and remove just the necessary surface markings.</div>
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I pulled the iron and flattened it. The iron was very bent so it took some doing. The edge was badly chewed up, so I reground it with its characteristic curve then honed. </div>
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The back of the iron is interesting. It's got a folding pattern in the steel. </div>
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Obviously, I doubt that it's truly folded steel. Cast on sand? No idea. If anybody has some info, post it in the comments.</div>
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The sole was pretty beat up. I smoothed down the burrs and worst scratches with some 600 grit paper followed by 1000 grit, then waxed. It pulls smooth and clean, and the iron cuts great.</div>
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But what can it be used for? Since its original use is now obsolete, why would I want one? Well, I started playing with it to clean up the wood top of my lathe stand. Since I use lots of water when finishing and polishing on the lathe, the wood looks pretty nasty. A few quick pulls with this scraper cleaned it right up. I can use a smoothing plane or a sander to get it flat and smooth. Or even leave it as is. It's got a nice hand scraped texture when done.</div>
Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-58732697722148435732014-09-02T12:44:00.000-07:002014-09-02T12:48:24.616-07:00Small Mallet - Sycamore and Black & White Ebony<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvmDW3G9Wm4UeqZp43T-OZCW9AAxelshGkp2vCf5wirBdGKoq4KBomUiOyM5v7uXwaEqzwG4nOsHrosaU7W6edf54k-qBmvCd0Zodu8ov5ybfyhXoTUGlIvAe7F20ncd7aipFD2TsqQbc/s1600/Mallet01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvmDW3G9Wm4UeqZp43T-OZCW9AAxelshGkp2vCf5wirBdGKoq4KBomUiOyM5v7uXwaEqzwG4nOsHrosaU7W6edf54k-qBmvCd0Zodu8ov5ybfyhXoTUGlIvAe7F20ncd7aipFD2TsqQbc/s1600/Mallet01.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A small mallet for the shop.</td></tr>
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After moving, I couldn't find any of my mallets. I needed to tap something into place, and using a steel hammer didn't appeal to me. So I dug up some scraps...<br />
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<a name='more'></a>The head is about 6" long, to give you some perspective. (Sorry, I was out of bananas for scale...) The head is sycamore, and the handle is black & white ebony. Both were in my "turning bits" box, all waxed up and waiting to be made into something.<br />
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The sycamore was racked. Nothing like a square or rectangular shape. I "jointed" it on the bandsaw to get it squared. (I really should document this technique. It's so fast and useful for small parts.) Drilled it through with a 11/16" bit, used a roundover bit on the router, then set it aside.<br />
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The handle was more of a challenge. I used the roundover bit to get it started, but there was lots of shaping to get it to fit in the hole I drilled. I started out with sandpaper, but aside from being REALLY tiresome, it was spreading the black from the ebony into the white. You can still see some in the pores of the white portions.<br />
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Then I remembered a cheap Harbor Freight block plane I had bought for my daughter to use. I had sharpened it up when I got it, then set it aside and neither of use had ever used it. I figured it was worth a shot.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivmECjy_EAldFzzUvmeUalYce0Z4evnSlLY-ZMwDdCmNwJVQKpISkZWkijd0-3ozEop1jdZUhWFS9BHNUAxJfwL4oNyUTK9_DOmeZf3Kz-VNOpeql1t1_C9YlhvHtW_IJ63QwbESW09fA/s1600/Mallet02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivmECjy_EAldFzzUvmeUalYce0Z4evnSlLY-ZMwDdCmNwJVQKpISkZWkijd0-3ozEop1jdZUhWFS9BHNUAxJfwL4oNyUTK9_DOmeZf3Kz-VNOpeql1t1_C9YlhvHtW_IJ63QwbESW09fA/s1600/Mallet02.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simple and cheap, but with a sharp iron it works great.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Took some fiddling to get it to cut down into the wood like I needed, but it worked great. A plane is a fairly simple device, a block plane even more so. I know we can complicate them, but really all a plane does is provide a handle for a blade held at a specific angle. The foot is smoothed and waxed, the iron sharp, and that's all I needed.<br />
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After wedging the end of the handle, I applied a wax finish. Normally I would oil it too, but I couldn't find either my can of BLO or my can of mineral oil. So wax it is.<br />
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I wear these mallets out pretty quick since I use them for EVERYTHING. I hate using a regular hammer for anything other than nails. A shop built mallet that gets beat up like this can't have much of a finish. Maybe on the handle, but it's not necessary. The oils from my hand will provide plenty... ;-)Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-42480775645541894822014-08-25T11:03:00.002-07:002019-08-31T10:25:37.275-07:00Craftsman Table Saw from the 80's<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKdYEa1PnvjlSARP7qeHfqcO2DpDVXDZLVzLQNdoJtXtQFtzZtcKoI_hrwSKVpTyTkrhGPqrAK4ZXV5p5uSECZMbbGRNAJibHMSfyIpq1ryfGuQMQ69odLMO5NcGq_aKCOQ-fEGrf5jZA/s1600/WP_20140821_17_45_47_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKdYEa1PnvjlSARP7qeHfqcO2DpDVXDZLVzLQNdoJtXtQFtzZtcKoI_hrwSKVpTyTkrhGPqrAK4ZXV5p5uSECZMbbGRNAJibHMSfyIpq1ryfGuQMQ69odLMO5NcGq_aKCOQ-fEGrf5jZA/s1600/WP_20140821_17_45_47_Pro.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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So I've officially stopped working on the Harbor Freight saw. I picked up this mid-80's Craftsman contractor's saw for $65.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>I couldn't beat the price. The top was straight, the motor was good and strong, and it actually ran. Of course I knew it would take lots of work...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEqpRsjJ0vB7ZnyhhPD7cKDq-f_WPb76Vqql2EnHJoARyjY3uedBYEGzT-_xpHh7O68jkKyaTQ4J-i1hdN0Enae09OGCAO08fd2jaM_olFg05oHS1W8NoEJ_hsQ7oUqM7mffHkse5dxno/s1600/WP_20140821_17_42_59_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEqpRsjJ0vB7ZnyhhPD7cKDq-f_WPb76Vqql2EnHJoARyjY3uedBYEGzT-_xpHh7O68jkKyaTQ4J-i1hdN0Enae09OGCAO08fd2jaM_olFg05oHS1W8NoEJ_hsQ7oUqM7mffHkse5dxno/s1600/WP_20140821_17_42_59_Pro.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
So let's start with the "Bad."<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><b>Rusty top</b>: To be expected. </li>
<li><b>Rusty bolts and fasteners</b>: Ditto. </li>
<li><b>Derpy casters</b>: The saw has obviously been rolled on rough ground, the caster mount points on the stand have all bent in.</li>
<li><b>Bad belt</b>: Shaped like a sausage due to memory and needs to be replaced.</li>
<li><b>Wrong motor</b>: Not so bad, as it's a superior motor to the stock one this saw shipped with. However, it's much larger than stock, so it's causing problems.</li>
<li><b>Terrible fence</b>: Well, this goes for all these old CMan saws.</li>
<li><b>Missing a wing</b>: Only one came with it.</li>
<li><b>Throat plate screw snapped off</b>:<b> </b>Someone went gorilla on it.<b> </b></li>
<li><b>Missing front crank handle</b>: Hey, the shop made one is functional, if ugly.</li>
<li><b>Crap blade</b>: The blade was actually warped.</li>
<li><b>Difficult to change angle</b>: Due to the motor. I'll explain below.</li>
<li><b>Bad power cord</b>: Converted 3 wire to 2 wire. Ugh.</li>
</ul>
Here's more pics:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSPjsNAHSzbQWwkvUMDs_t2fd5LPKJh29Hr8BmlWSWPqzFob6LnqpWDDUIY65V3x_kBLRemTPcLBEWfzkaiQj4cSvO4VdzultmAQBgBkxKjznXWEO8KnP5ElcUdjG4X6niHhB2qmgqVs/s1600/WP_20140821_17_45_57_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSPjsNAHSzbQWwkvUMDs_t2fd5LPKJh29Hr8BmlWSWPqzFob6LnqpWDDUIY65V3x_kBLRemTPcLBEWfzkaiQj4cSvO4VdzultmAQBgBkxKjznXWEO8KnP5ElcUdjG4X6niHhB2qmgqVs/s1600/WP_20140821_17_45_57_Pro.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rough top.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPS_NgkD2Gh1nvKDm6SmS383zBaEzIYZ_vsdN6sG-Tf4qsyjgrPtPj3f8gd7l3KvZ8wNoCzkKBPVb1mEZX84x3LWuypwt1Tfd8GbV1jk1DFNdTrC1r6_hyphenhyphenLYOaMGlhSOHsr4njzU232Xk/s1600/WP_20140821_17_46_09_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPS_NgkD2Gh1nvKDm6SmS383zBaEzIYZ_vsdN6sG-Tf4qsyjgrPtPj3f8gd7l3KvZ8wNoCzkKBPVb1mEZX84x3LWuypwt1Tfd8GbV1jk1DFNdTrC1r6_hyphenhyphenLYOaMGlhSOHsr4njzU232Xk/s1600/WP_20140821_17_46_09_Pro.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How do you shear off a screw that should never be super tight?</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0lzW3_nWGn3pwXOO-KGf4Iuz3JYOTKrWcYdE4xMJJLqltpQA0C19_xaNrOCEvsDEBjUKiJ45ucoEl__P4Lyg7TuiewWFS-6B0a4tlNNh5KH2UcoPzCeoYtfQ9cf-Au2EOB264YV_bnnY/s1600/WP_20140821_17_46_48_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0lzW3_nWGn3pwXOO-KGf4Iuz3JYOTKrWcYdE4xMJJLqltpQA0C19_xaNrOCEvsDEBjUKiJ45ucoEl__P4Lyg7TuiewWFS-6B0a4tlNNh5KH2UcoPzCeoYtfQ9cf-Au2EOB264YV_bnnY/s1600/WP_20140821_17_46_48_Pro.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Derp.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDbCvn3NmSqYe9-qt5waMkAkbqAPkJ1bo6pQonJSKJnKF_9bJkXj-c4SiZyMiq93NUVeeWhzTAocEm-DTTetzBpiCpY_hE3gD6Mx3am6ydQ2qbqjwmXxY9iOpg10BXhCfF6Lsta-Z-qAA/s1600/WP_20140821_17_47_39_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDbCvn3NmSqYe9-qt5waMkAkbqAPkJ1bo6pQonJSKJnKF_9bJkXj-c4SiZyMiq93NUVeeWhzTAocEm-DTTetzBpiCpY_hE3gD6Mx3am6ydQ2qbqjwmXxY9iOpg10BXhCfF6Lsta-Z-qAA/s1600/WP_20140821_17_47_39_Pro.jpg" width="112" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Is that a block of wood supporting the motor?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Let's look at what's good.<br />
<ul>
<li>Top is flat.</li>
<li>Motor is a Dayton TEFC 1.5hp dual cap model. Sweet!</li>
<li>Nothing broken or cracked underneath.</li>
</ul>
So I got my $65 worth even if all I use is the motor. But with a flat top and solid guts, I can make this baby hum!<br />
<br />
First thing I did was scrub the top with vinegar and a green weenie. This removed the grunge and rust.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDBWRiTPywQW0L0uF2lXlF9n4FVBgrY5U2qOnLALuDbbsfILniEo_8DI7jSXMZW5RRappIgLPswiH23XFqKLKXtdueaOExWFkZ8-VU8wdlO4MduC-Mqi8YxN75jvtucv4sOlePd6Gg18g/s1600/WP_20140823_08_20_18_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDBWRiTPywQW0L0uF2lXlF9n4FVBgrY5U2qOnLALuDbbsfILniEo_8DI7jSXMZW5RRappIgLPswiH23XFqKLKXtdueaOExWFkZ8-VU8wdlO4MduC-Mqi8YxN75jvtucv4sOlePd6Gg18g/s1600/WP_20140823_08_20_18_Pro.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can kinda see the difference here.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I followed that up with a used 220 grit disk on the ROS. There were some gouges in the cast iron hidden by the surface rust. Some of them had small burrs that rose above the top's plane. After the 220 smoothed the rough edges, I polished by hand with 1000 grit paper. Super smooth when I was done!<br />
<br />
To protect the top, I sprayed it down with dry lube. When the carrier fully evaporated I applied 2 coats of wax.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQoTpHUo53o-FGIca37ou4KhXsq1My6-fxPKR0-7N0IK2vu7TC9Z5mz-IUqBXyKSG7nfZLmGQ0GFtPA6h4kwpWYlicn0jg8pfKRr29ekVAc0fZlvio_-aFenflrFLmSB82I7pwOeRc_A4/s1600/WP_20140824_08_27_52_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQoTpHUo53o-FGIca37ou4KhXsq1My6-fxPKR0-7N0IK2vu7TC9Z5mz-IUqBXyKSG7nfZLmGQ0GFtPA6h4kwpWYlicn0jg8pfKRr29ekVAc0fZlvio_-aFenflrFLmSB82I7pwOeRc_A4/s1600/WP_20140824_08_27_52_Pro.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gouges after sanding. Still there, but the edges are smooth now.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijfCd8t2aZLtVQNtqoS3DGUTVQ7xeGJOAQ7m7uZ0LywruFmx5aKeyTe33u5cFprwVpdBSUEeWWjxFWMu4kcHnIADCGHKx1CwvRAobk04u5Y4DSvE_DRriIYEMNtuh9zCTfZkp3pgX05_o/s1600/WP_20140824_08_26_18_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijfCd8t2aZLtVQNtqoS3DGUTVQ7xeGJOAQ7m7uZ0LywruFmx5aKeyTe33u5cFprwVpdBSUEeWWjxFWMu4kcHnIADCGHKx1CwvRAobk04u5Y4DSvE_DRriIYEMNtuh9zCTfZkp3pgX05_o/s1600/WP_20140824_08_26_18_Pro.jpg" width="112" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking good!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX3tKOhaJsOxu9xuIs383Jye5VX0mb51Du701uN_dJVJ_poqbpCpWtYmBJe0iCeZqLi9bENtDNftBrvsuGP_Coi3lqVXyYz8fuSLaP8f2ZxpNh6LjckMbCkQ0QOAfvcqMlvzt43u03djA/s1600/WP_20140824_08_26_05_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX3tKOhaJsOxu9xuIs383Jye5VX0mb51Du701uN_dJVJ_poqbpCpWtYmBJe0iCeZqLi9bENtDNftBrvsuGP_Coi3lqVXyYz8fuSLaP8f2ZxpNh6LjckMbCkQ0QOAfvcqMlvzt43u03djA/s1600/WP_20140824_08_26_05_Pro.jpg" width="112" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love that we can still see the machining marks.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It didn't come with a miter gauge, but I didn't list it in the "Bad" list since I don't care. They're junk, and I had my nice Incra from my previous saws.<br />
<br />
So now the top is clean, polished, and very smooth. Woot!<br />
<br />
Next is the motor.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3h51unnKWJ1ixaCp3MQIXNV5GiNrU2G6li8StFJZ4LnnOOekz97gROQEr2PZvl6o31pSfC8FCfIv5VBkp0_9KATq70ryAm0_LWjuK6BTsrF5PDDSQrOgi3V0InTcDo9wlv2e1HLtvJQ4/s1600/WP_20140821_17_44_12_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3h51unnKWJ1ixaCp3MQIXNV5GiNrU2G6li8StFJZ4LnnOOekz97gROQEr2PZvl6o31pSfC8FCfIv5VBkp0_9KATq70ryAm0_LWjuK6BTsrF5PDDSQrOgi3V0InTcDo9wlv2e1HLtvJQ4/s1600/WP_20140821_17_44_12_Pro.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1.5Hp Baybee!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It's a Dayton TEFC (Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled) dual capacitor motor making 1.5 horsepower. It's significantly larger than the original 1 horse Craftsman motor. But whoever installed it didn't adjust the mounting frame to accommodate the larger motor. So to keep it from hitting the body of the saw, they wedged a block of wood in place. I'm surprised the saw top wasn't distorted by this.<br />
<br />
I adjusted the frame to give the motor clearance to move freely through all the adjustment ranges. Once that was done, I replaced the old belt with a link belt. They're $20 at Harbor Freight if you use one of the ubiquitous 20% off coupons. Plenty of places online have them for $20-50. At In-Line you can get the belt and new machined pulleys for $50. I just didn't want to wait for shipping...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL-aKRmj_L2MB4Kls78g3Npne8BQWPmz_C8ULG-x-k0uU3S5JWFuMQYr8ibaRMoBmQZMvf4MaGKR9C-fkmNhp2eVfvFMmxoaUR6Rjy95MDDO8ocykX5IrGK6-TzME6I2MsnQmiPy7_g_c/s1600/WP_20140824_08_28_38_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL-aKRmj_L2MB4Kls78g3Npne8BQWPmz_C8ULG-x-k0uU3S5JWFuMQYr8ibaRMoBmQZMvf4MaGKR9C-fkmNhp2eVfvFMmxoaUR6Rjy95MDDO8ocykX5IrGK6-TzME6I2MsnQmiPy7_g_c/s1600/WP_20140824_08_28_38_Pro.jpg" width="112" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Linky link link. And green!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The last thing is to align the blade to the miter slots. Considering how old and abused this saw was, I expected it to be way off. Using my clamp-on dial indicator attached to my miter gauge, I found only .05mm change from front to back. I can live with that for now. I may want to get it closer at some point, but I suspect the whole assembly will flex more than that during a cut.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtYoo3EfHj9cVOMopEcTxvw9Z5UEioG28KWB1Ehq32W2su1cwXVNF96VgsGhbEYuCLgaiYeVMFg0s5k4QZbySM6LaUZvTXZXEsANAAlpzngs89bq7VvUofbECK046K25MPq7wzCvJ_pbQ/s1600/WP_20140824_12_34_36_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtYoo3EfHj9cVOMopEcTxvw9Z5UEioG28KWB1Ehq32W2su1cwXVNF96VgsGhbEYuCLgaiYeVMFg0s5k4QZbySM6LaUZvTXZXEsANAAlpzngs89bq7VvUofbECK046K25MPq7wzCvJ_pbQ/s1600/WP_20140824_12_34_36_Pro.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br />
So with everything dialed in, I ripped a piece of redwood. It takes ages to get the fence true, so that's definitely on my wish list. But even so, it cut pretty clean considering this is a crappy 7 1/4" circular saw blade with a stupid stick-on label.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZkic-nK3gl7WuCNr_AmxpQM95jFk0F3k7fvUyQ18VEnyGOYTJzgIgqnzmCWSRFHJ3WXb6NyGM5plkeMNh-7c3lB9TD7nXdMuBwrxQZtYW9xT-XT1RD4i08c0Ln6XixUxowh4_7CHRyg8/s1600/WP_20140824_08_29_32_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZkic-nK3gl7WuCNr_AmxpQM95jFk0F3k7fvUyQ18VEnyGOYTJzgIgqnzmCWSRFHJ3WXb6NyGM5plkeMNh-7c3lB9TD7nXdMuBwrxQZtYW9xT-XT1RD4i08c0Ln6XixUxowh4_7CHRyg8/s1600/WP_20140824_08_29_32_Pro.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<br />
<br />
<br />
I'll spend some time trying to get that fence improved next week. But I don't expect much out of it. I really just need to get some $$ together and buy a better one. The Delta T2 runs around $200 and is far superior to this. Or a Vega for about the same money. Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-46322031043418317642014-08-19T11:12:00.001-07:002014-08-19T11:14:37.806-07:00HF 10" Industrial Table Saw Tuning Part 1<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZk6xpIFejFxDWy4GgZrpEX8_bjgrhVZVCxYulwf10LPSI-OvyK7-EfYqT5EQwM8QDrscCWO3II9fKwDPrK7C9K30h5mrcNxD967aJZ8r8u1unzdoz8JU_pvVWceZXLt35om0qjEG5HWQ/s1600/HFSaw1-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZk6xpIFejFxDWy4GgZrpEX8_bjgrhVZVCxYulwf10LPSI-OvyK7-EfYqT5EQwM8QDrscCWO3II9fKwDPrK7C9K30h5mrcNxD967aJZ8r8u1unzdoz8JU_pvVWceZXLt35om0qjEG5HWQ/s1600/HFSaw1-01.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Best I could get without modification.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Harbor Freight 10" 15 Amp Industrial Table Saw is cheap and should be pretty capable. However, it takes some modification to make it right.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a>When I moved into the apartment I needed a saw small enough and light enough to move between the patio and the apartment whenever I wanted to use it. I picked this saw up pretty cheap with coupons and such from Harbor Freight. It's item <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-15-amp-industrial-table-saw-69480.html" target="_blank">69480</a>. Note the label has changed, but the saw itself is the same.<br />
<br />
Out of the box, the closest I could get the blade to 90 degrees to the table was 89.1. The stop adjustment was completely loose, so the saw wasn't binding there. I couldn't figure out why, so my Hitachi miter saw got the task of doing accurate work, and roughing out sheet is all I used the table saw for.<br />
<br />
A few weeks ago I moved into a condo with a garage (YAY!!!) So yesterday I finally dove in to see what the actual problem was.<br />
<br />
The screw that holds the pointer was protruding through the back enough that it caught on the opening for the blade adjustment handle!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAORJ453P6FaCXEJoNGxM6MiTmCIL7Djt8uFkakInLY64GpkEE3JRBb1dYcluL6mL7ee4bVIGVUP3hwY5tpYBWnuZRmVH1sQR1eDQzPk2Bpj6hOWqHBS9hlR9m7B8UlxztUh5eGSopJsY/s1600/HFSaw1-02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAORJ453P6FaCXEJoNGxM6MiTmCIL7Djt8uFkakInLY64GpkEE3JRBb1dYcluL6mL7ee4bVIGVUP3hwY5tpYBWnuZRmVH1sQR1eDQzPk2Bpj6hOWqHBS9hlR9m7B8UlxztUh5eGSopJsY/s1600/HFSaw1-02.jpg" height="216" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sorry for potato. But you can see the screw hitting the opening.</td></tr>
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Now, I could have simply removed the indicator or ground down the screw. But looking at the stamped steel plate showed what looks like the outline of where it SHOULD have been cut. Somehow the factory was off by half an inch.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSvpE1JRxrCg70HcQt7Dygqr2o-UVKSfhg4odypfISOWtHQxEp9Jmjoa9ne69LNebF3IehhDn95nbmj0pvpkjuqf2n-DWVN4_egrV66lJceW8j5a0eeJDNoErFrnnk9wSIiskCtoodgTs/s1600/HFSaw1-03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSvpE1JRxrCg70HcQt7Dygqr2o-UVKSfhg4odypfISOWtHQxEp9Jmjoa9ne69LNebF3IehhDn95nbmj0pvpkjuqf2n-DWVN4_egrV66lJceW8j5a0eeJDNoErFrnnk9wSIiskCtoodgTs/s1600/HFSaw1-03.jpg" height="229" width="320" /></a></div>
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Out comes the Dremel! I ground the opening down nearly to the outline of where the hole should have been. It took about 30 minutes, but only because the stone I had was finer than I would like. But it did the job.<br />
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I made sure that I removed enough so I could adjust several degrees PAST 90. I prefer to use the stop screw to get me to 90 than some artificial limit. And it worked!<br />
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And 45* too!!<br />
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One problem solved!<br />
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On my wish list are two more issues:<br />
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<ol>
<li>See if it's possible to cut the miter slots to 3/4" x 3/8" so I can use my Incra miter gauge.</li>
<li>Stabilize or strengthen the rip fence. It's a flimsy piece of junk.</li>
</ol>
So while I can make this saw cut well, it's not a good saw. It fit my very specific needs for weight and space, but by no means can I recommend this saw for serious work. It's a typical jobsite saw with a direct drive noisy motor, flimsy materials, non standard miter gauge slots, and has the added bonus of poor quality control, being that it's from Harbor Freight.<br />
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It may end up being a sled-only saw for small items, or it may go in the dumpster when I get something a little more robust.Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-78920227710846124242013-11-24T08:32:00.001-08:002013-11-24T08:32:55.584-08:00The Outdoor Workshop<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJqbxn1Ww0G4SdUs69ExjqS_lmBf_d-7HNd8HWPG5aY1F3uJr9LcQY7Tz1P5Kfy3DD6TaLLyeHQJtbu5zHEb_qVIWOo-b15mDvsdFlhHYlQMjBdJMMiHj4_Pgv-gXZIK1NSo6C5wS-Xuo/s1600/lathe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJqbxn1Ww0G4SdUs69ExjqS_lmBf_d-7HNd8HWPG5aY1F3uJr9LcQY7Tz1P5Kfy3DD6TaLLyeHQJtbu5zHEb_qVIWOo-b15mDvsdFlhHYlQMjBdJMMiHj4_Pgv-gXZIK1NSo6C5wS-Xuo/s320/lathe.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working with the lathe on a beautiful sunny day.</td></tr>
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Is it possible to have an outdoor workshop when you live in an apartment?<br />
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When I lived in Colorado, I had a 1-car garage to do my woodworking in. I complained often about how small it was. If I only knew...<br />
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When I moved back to California, and got an apartment, a garage shop wasn't an option. I couldn't afford an apartment big enough to devote a bedroom to woodworking, and certainly couldn't afford another house here in So Cal. However, my apartment does have a fenced in front "yard".<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5dLTbnAwuTISE4jY_xg9BO2yGobHkcqcuVFys1Q1eCqBqduuQP4brcWE6HrKFQouVJrEK94sl0PebT5hDqNln6BroTijTlDx6-eoP8GmGuIIACXiBHwc_eMI6GOxSx64FOL4KG8b6EEs/s1600/yard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5dLTbnAwuTISE4jY_xg9BO2yGobHkcqcuVFys1Q1eCqBqduuQP4brcWE6HrKFQouVJrEK94sl0PebT5hDqNln6BroTijTlDx6-eoP8GmGuIIACXiBHwc_eMI6GOxSx64FOL4KG8b6EEs/s320/yard.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "yard" as seen from my front door. </td></tr>
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I figured there had to be a way to make this work for me. So I bought a bunch of redwood 2x4's and some stainless screws (see previous post for the screws) and went to work. I couldn't bring my nice big table saw from Colorado, so I bought a cheap portable saw from Harbor Freight. It had to be light enough for me to take into the apartment when I was done using it. This saw started the process of building this bench:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTFSDbCc7g28RRqgl4yyAP-ZfU3bNNUDhVpGcPqXL6KNJ44FwL5LndKx7cGBBygQtTT6ioCrOXXD9_hFYYX80nwF1aVQLDApFCuUKpIzsRAEb5iLCtFyy_YGLl36SyrhIW-b_M_-QWxn8/s1600/bench01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTFSDbCc7g28RRqgl4yyAP-ZfU3bNNUDhVpGcPqXL6KNJ44FwL5LndKx7cGBBygQtTT6ioCrOXXD9_hFYYX80nwF1aVQLDApFCuUKpIzsRAEb5iLCtFyy_YGLl36SyrhIW-b_M_-QWxn8/s320/bench01.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cheap saw works ok. Miter gauge sucks, and it has non-standard slots.</td></tr>
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My very first post was about building a <a href="http://blog.woodscrub.info/2007/09/your-first-project-workbench-bench-i.html" target="_blank">workbench</a>. I used a similar concept, but put the cross pieces inside the legs instead of outside. Made it more compact and used less wood.<br />
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Basically, it was a glue and screw construction. I used redwood and stainless screws because I intend this to be outside in the weather. I used a waterproof wood glue as well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhENmQH7w1tjQKx1roPKcGeqZn2_8E41MM9TirwuBhmqVxToB_Er0wK7ofXSjuzCsShN3BJu7w1NVXtgMBMYeBij2IDR_Yy8y2bbpOubMRtfY6WK8FD-yCCP4Bqtg8cPZN1zWVVGYmJsaQ/s1600/bench02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhENmQH7w1tjQKx1roPKcGeqZn2_8E41MM9TirwuBhmqVxToB_Er0wK7ofXSjuzCsShN3BJu7w1NVXtgMBMYeBij2IDR_Yy8y2bbpOubMRtfY6WK8FD-yCCP4Bqtg8cPZN1zWVVGYmJsaQ/s320/bench02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGpSuJv-g4BVWAEO2jUIs8kVa7TOTOQye9z7K7u4UTv26dQug0LLpB0Pi6Kn6HTANOKINga2DhIxjomVUMj-z1o4oAKydv2HKxw9807O_eGHYgaNAEMbHPUAdbye8SrectLqNbHHkVdOc/s1600/bench03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGpSuJv-g4BVWAEO2jUIs8kVa7TOTOQye9z7K7u4UTv26dQug0LLpB0Pi6Kn6HTANOKINga2DhIxjomVUMj-z1o4oAKydv2HKxw9807O_eGHYgaNAEMbHPUAdbye8SrectLqNbHHkVdOc/s320/bench03.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It's solid enough to support my not so svelte self standing on it. I'm sure it'll support any tool I throw at it.<br />
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I still haven't come up with a top. I'd love to find a scrap of granite countertop. I don't think Corian would survive being out in the sun and weather, and even "outdoor" plywood will warp pretty quick. In the meantime, I just stuck some redwood scraps across the top so it'll be useful until I find something. And bored a hole to put up an umbrella.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaq3UfxFNjEYZbjkJYoIQ_S5KRh6BUIsBv2grLIQoV83sCvhv7bhPuUM1taPM4u5n8ybpSqAPwS4UFJ1PXjIyLLkRHuFKPZ3RrFmLue3s5lP_FjsNjpwm1Fc817-2XIJDybD5ZQgWoQFA/s1600/clamping.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaq3UfxFNjEYZbjkJYoIQ_S5KRh6BUIsBv2grLIQoV83sCvhv7bhPuUM1taPM4u5n8ybpSqAPwS4UFJ1PXjIyLLkRHuFKPZ3RrFmLue3s5lP_FjsNjpwm1Fc817-2XIJDybD5ZQgWoQFA/s320/clamping.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clamping a butcher block top. The table saw is underneath wearing a sheet for protection. It goes in the house at night.</td></tr>
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I currently use it with my lathe, table saw, Craftsman 10" bandsaw, Hitachi 10" miter saw, and so on. It's also handy for any projects my daughter may take on, like this roller coaster Halloween costume.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpfj346vSL2zxo9uJl4EHhKZMQoRbmkDnnTcKkPHur9cNK1_xAsU6DKiqOlZyhQ327cu_sAszBT_SS9SDJHo9BBTHP7a5vrP5SgX6FhYsRAvCJv26m_RJmkHq2cKrbv2GbHRnLuMNG8LQ/s1600/projects.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpfj346vSL2zxo9uJl4EHhKZMQoRbmkDnnTcKkPHur9cNK1_xAsU6DKiqOlZyhQ327cu_sAszBT_SS9SDJHo9BBTHP7a5vrP5SgX6FhYsRAvCJv26m_RJmkHq2cKrbv2GbHRnLuMNG8LQ/s320/projects.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SpeedZilla</td></tr>
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Managing the big tools in the house isn't too bad. The bigger issue is all the supplies and small tools. There's nothing pretty in there, so no pics yet. I still need to figure it all out.<br />
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However, I wanted to show that it *IS* possible to have a workshop outside. Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-70830382925359595462013-05-27T14:02:00.002-07:002013-05-27T14:02:58.455-07:00Grip Rite #305 Stainless Steel Exterior Screws ReviewI'm building a workbench out of redwood 2x4's to keep outdoors. So I bought some stainless steel screws to put it together.<br />
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The included bit is a #2 square drive. But the screws aren't a snug fit for a #2 bit. I had my own #2 bit that I've used with other screws no problem, but it also is too small for these screws.<br />
<br />After rounding off both bits, I'm done with these useless screws.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCsP-J_rgAJcP-y9z8wqYJFAVC19ww1pwDBskZ4h5jSTNwrG1yL9yobvx1e2bPI32Hu0PmAXaFz2_nxiDaWFRulhR4MXkGhep7CpENTi31ri3c1I0icbSYdOODqehYIywrj_kNFO4fjlI/s1600/bench-screws.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCsP-J_rgAJcP-y9z8wqYJFAVC19ww1pwDBskZ4h5jSTNwrG1yL9yobvx1e2bPI32Hu0PmAXaFz2_nxiDaWFRulhR4MXkGhep7CpENTi31ri3c1I0icbSYdOODqehYIywrj_kNFO4fjlI/s320/bench-screws.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I'll contact the manufacturer... Perhaps it's simply a bad batch. Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-79300416944303087752011-11-16T10:21:00.000-08:002013-07-07T13:35:50.933-07:00PSI's Shock Absorber KitsWell, I finall got some time to work on the lathe, and thought this would be a great opportunity to try PSI's new <a href="http://amzn.to/12PcJ6j" target="_blank">Shock Absorber pen kits</a>.<br />
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First off, these look more like either coil-overs or McPhearson struts to me. But that's neither here nor there. ;)<br />
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Fit and finish appear to be decent. Plating looks good. My only real complaint about the quality is the choice of refill. They used @#$%^ mini refills! That pen is pretty large, and there's no excuse for using the mini refills. They're crap, and I'm pretty bothered they made that choice.<br />
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The pens are very much a gimmick. They're not comfortable to write with, and don't have a pocket clip. This is something a mechanic or gearhead has laying around to look cool.<br />
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And they do look cool!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg94xGBZeplb7WoAYmp1kSeQxResJ-G3fi-Et1bHC6hlXm0a8hKN0bKb14YzV9MrRkPY-j53dj1vFGApaCcQesnzGX07KHmEcarsQgL1594WNnleZmPlF5FfW9hqD-PqRIgNZoB9KzBx8k/s1600/ShockPens.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg94xGBZeplb7WoAYmp1kSeQxResJ-G3fi-Et1bHC6hlXm0a8hKN0bKb14YzV9MrRkPY-j53dj1vFGApaCcQesnzGX07KHmEcarsQgL1594WNnleZmPlF5FfW9hqD-PqRIgNZoB9KzBx8k/s320/ShockPens.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The barrels are my black/silver swirled poly resin.Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-39357793682573963262011-11-06T11:32:00.000-08:002011-11-06T11:32:12.614-08:00No posts for a while...We had an emergency move in October 2011. Sold most of my tools and such to facilitate the move from CO to CA.<br />
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I'm keeping this blog up, but won't be posting for a while until I get settled somewhere that I can start making stuff again.<br />
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Sorry!<br />
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By most I mean that I only kept:<br />
Rikon lathe<br />
Cman 10" bandsaw<br />
Delta 12.5" planer<br />
Cman grinder (to sharpen lathe tools)<br />
Hand tools<br />
Casting stuff<br />
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Everything else was sold, including my table saw, miter saw, compressor, etc etc etc...Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-74140993650730933542011-09-15T10:04:00.000-07:002020-03-01T18:52:04.176-08:00Review: Rikon 70-050 Midi Lathe<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhorkZrD3EhIk3rwkrWAyJaV9pXn4oeGKUlEPn5p_pMXZKs1cIxWAKvEUkflaa1FPlP8ES1Ya1qvKsotal-h70wHlTwIFoU_ZUUESnpOuKDDkyIWG6PvexucgLP9savubP_TDSoYKv9FJ8/s1600/rikonlathe01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhorkZrD3EhIk3rwkrWAyJaV9pXn4oeGKUlEPn5p_pMXZKs1cIxWAKvEUkflaa1FPlP8ES1Ya1qvKsotal-h70wHlTwIFoU_ZUUESnpOuKDDkyIWG6PvexucgLP9savubP_TDSoYKv9FJ8/s320/rikonlathe01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I recently sold my Delta 46-701 lathe. Two primary reasons:<br />
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<ol>
<li>Too bloody big for my one car garage.</li>
<li>Needed the money (I've been out of work).</li>
</ol>
But I use a lathe a lot, so I needed to sell the Delta for enough $$ to buy a smaller replacement as well as have some cash.<br />
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<a name='more'></a> It worked out really well. The Delta sold the same weekend that Woodcraft had the Rikon 70-050 online for $200. AND $5 flat rate shipping. Sweet!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR_k4FyjY0HYXDa5l8QAwa_85aNTJlchc1sB7xOlvyuqSrfyZVQx7Tryr4n-4CZTNQHcj0OVMsjmqwb9ddWbheQy6r0zawklcwI_LdLI2DjC7bNG-VY8YvALGwWWuxoa_SGf-964bLjMA/s1600/rikonlathe06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR_k4FyjY0HYXDa5l8QAwa_85aNTJlchc1sB7xOlvyuqSrfyZVQx7Tryr4n-4CZTNQHcj0OVMsjmqwb9ddWbheQy6r0zawklcwI_LdLI2DjC7bNG-VY8YvALGwWWuxoa_SGf-964bLjMA/s320/rikonlathe06.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Opening the box my initial impression was that the lathe was very substantial. While it is comparable to the PSI Turncrafter Pro I used to have in size and features, the Rikon is heavier and has a superior fit and finish. It is also quieter. My old Delta, having a Reeves drive, was a noisy beast. This Rikon is quiet and a pleasure to use.<br />
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I mentioned fit and finish. There are two places where the lathe itself shows a lack of attention to detail. First is the Rikon badge on the bed. It's a puffy sticker that wasn't well attached. I was able to pop it right off and stick it back on. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS9x6zjIR0wPAURCfVmnuOhOpVGXKcBnZYALjnsPQ2gVsdP-LYexcz3Zgc4JwDssnq6iCAnmjUbHOo33gJriRivu8yquLBoMl86tcKhnEro4K8X5Ftizd2wK32B0wc5bAQPvdA0X-hnnQ/s1600/rikonlathe05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS9x6zjIR0wPAURCfVmnuOhOpVGXKcBnZYALjnsPQ2gVsdP-LYexcz3Zgc4JwDssnq6iCAnmjUbHOo33gJriRivu8yquLBoMl86tcKhnEro4K8X5Ftizd2wK32B0wc5bAQPvdA0X-hnnQ/s320/rikonlathe05.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The other place is in the upper belt access door behind the headstock. The paint is cracked at the tab:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidDhr95AEGl89yhizuLjcqrO1IH8eanyNicebh0jmK3YlMVwlUBesnet56ThgTycwT_wnGKKSk_k7HLTaB66jZDVHIiQeUTOwzTDf-Jmk0s4zrcYOp4PVHAV_6s5X7JZ-aBJXq7RW6TB0/s1600/rikonlathe03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidDhr95AEGl89yhizuLjcqrO1IH8eanyNicebh0jmK3YlMVwlUBesnet56ThgTycwT_wnGKKSk_k7HLTaB66jZDVHIiQeUTOwzTDf-Jmk0s4zrcYOp4PVHAV_6s5X7JZ-aBJXq7RW6TB0/s320/rikonlathe03.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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While neither are work impacting, I worried that there would be other more important issues. But as of yet, I've found none.<br />
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I do recommend dumping the centers that come with the lathe, however. When I checked the center to center alignment I found it to be off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTG7loXQnb2VPasjDT_RUwAUNi3GXp8PaGAXYD1qedWnuD7Q5Q3KPcAJmN4zOVnrCt8TH_IPQmCnzW7jXm7RJK2AsGrXd1oZuKxOq_czmkWsQSVKBbllivdvVliSNlGwTrVzkQ7OEoy1c/s1600/rikonlathe04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTG7loXQnb2VPasjDT_RUwAUNi3GXp8PaGAXYD1qedWnuD7Q5Q3KPcAJmN4zOVnrCt8TH_IPQmCnzW7jXm7RJK2AsGrXd1oZuKxOq_czmkWsQSVKBbllivdvVliSNlGwTrVzkQ7OEoy1c/s320/rikonlathe04.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Turned out to be the live center wasn't square. When I installed <a href="http://amzn.to/12kNmJG" target="_blank">my own live center</a> it was fine. So the one that came with the lathe has been relegated to the box of crap I'll never use.<br />
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Vibration is far less than the Delta or the Turncrafter. But a small amount is still there. That small amount went away when I bolted the lathe directly to the table.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUnVuF0KZHt1LRAm20ac4bDeCRiH6idjHADwSqlBCh2imN-Tn1I8hsp3MwMfQC9cm92T5wZ2n1KYKZmFi-3wABpkszH_hf1XBvvo7trcWi2OjO2AXngpUu4y44ixcGNdw_IjQ6a_tInVM/s1600/rikonlathe07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUnVuF0KZHt1LRAm20ac4bDeCRiH6idjHADwSqlBCh2imN-Tn1I8hsp3MwMfQC9cm92T5wZ2n1KYKZmFi-3wABpkszH_hf1XBvvo7trcWi2OjO2AXngpUu4y44ixcGNdw_IjQ6a_tInVM/s320/rikonlathe07.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And I finished off my little workstation by drilling out some 1.25" holes around the back to hold my tools:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWTqrfztssrLwz-eQUeq49X-NoRXU7jw66rlOR6n-HUm5_srVuuYtuMlO_2zNzdV0XDW0QTKMmwJBuUgtUiiyWtUCmO6w7Y2wbSiCwzRnaHEbC5mpvYP7fqtyrmviYSrtZSrliaJblqRY/s1600/rikonlathe08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWTqrfztssrLwz-eQUeq49X-NoRXU7jw66rlOR6n-HUm5_srVuuYtuMlO_2zNzdV0XDW0QTKMmwJBuUgtUiiyWtUCmO6w7Y2wbSiCwzRnaHEbC5mpvYP7fqtyrmviYSrtZSrliaJblqRY/s320/rikonlathe08.jpg" width="214" /></a></div>
In conclusion: The lathe was absolutely worth the $200. Without a variable speed, I don't think it's worth much more than that. The 70-100 has the variable speed and is a superior lathe. But it is much more expensive. By the way, this lathe had a retail price of $339. Far too high.<br />
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It's a capable and pleasurable lathe that I wouldn't hesitate to recommend.Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-51273829741000403922011-09-11T17:51:00.000-07:002011-09-11T17:51:07.889-07:00Making a pen using a CYOC blank (Part 6)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj1zQQPEY63l9IKqraXcV3mdj-ZkGvoqCFM91zCmqfydnqixo9Dc0xC_glPRsDtpn-m1OE0tG6trF0PpyOoxcwhmJMYdYU93bI7tmMA23DS6Ve-7La3UE1E-lUamIcg6hfSbABxEH2mIE/s1600/inst-cyoc12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj1zQQPEY63l9IKqraXcV3mdj-ZkGvoqCFM91zCmqfydnqixo9Dc0xC_glPRsDtpn-m1OE0tG6trF0PpyOoxcwhmJMYdYU93bI7tmMA23DS6Ve-7La3UE1E-lUamIcg6hfSbABxEH2mIE/s320/inst-cyoc12.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Carefully press the furniture into the polished barrel.<br />
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And the end result, a beautiful pen!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkKbKdoh7Hgu3b2WacxQIuLyK1zPuTJbPVyV9R_-7ftIuVWr5pbrLKWc3BaZ9NigUNWIZnAYhEvNoZt9zQJzxDMV09T4SYbIqEuAthcF-3gOH6rKLLLFjeOb91O0KjsnRw6BPGZ4_lZwM/s1600/egerdblk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkKbKdoh7Hgu3b2WacxQIuLyK1zPuTJbPVyV9R_-7ftIuVWr5pbrLKWc3BaZ9NigUNWIZnAYhEvNoZt9zQJzxDMV09T4SYbIqEuAthcF-3gOH6rKLLLFjeOb91O0KjsnRw6BPGZ4_lZwM/s320/egerdblk.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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As you can see, the red showed through the clear areas beautifully. And it influenced the black areas to create what I call "Red as Night".<br />
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I hope you enjoyed this little peek at my process for making pens. There are, of course, many steps I didn't discuss. You'll already know about most of them if you're a penturner. If not, feel free to ask!Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-57390579069845598662011-09-03T13:10:00.000-07:002011-09-03T13:10:24.484-07:00Making a pen using a CYOC blank (Part 5)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i> This is part four of the series, "Making a pen using a CYOC blank".</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMOIRooerahmGEuoN7v0zohVIvAn-YFTc6Rn63ifEtNco3apE0ME54qqqAK_gAIdj4oismxYh4pIbxPWnNyB213BKtDlKZEL9Nk66wsKArgu6NrOf0_STIqNXRLs95MFQabr0SX13Pq2s/s1600/inst-cyoc10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMOIRooerahmGEuoN7v0zohVIvAn-YFTc6Rn63ifEtNco3apE0ME54qqqAK_gAIdj4oismxYh4pIbxPWnNyB213BKtDlKZEL9Nk66wsKArgu6NrOf0_STIqNXRLs95MFQabr0SX13Pq2s/s320/inst-cyoc10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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Now the blank is turned to size. You know about this stuff.<br />
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Like any other poly resin or acrylic blank, sand through the grits with your Micromesh, or use wet/dry sandpaper to at least 4000 grit. Then buff.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXzsc-f1t8ZAgPfNjLe4tTMde9haqT5NYkPTy_rZ1T5SpMgGqtpWqopdy7oQ_8EPoRM5ONCSW9nU1wxz6Y6FIr1hMMzC58xR5w41wS9XO0DD47fl8tN8y6EV4iKGOZT560cnNXKKNTaEs/s1600/inst-cyoc11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXzsc-f1t8ZAgPfNjLe4tTMde9haqT5NYkPTy_rZ1T5SpMgGqtpWqopdy7oQ_8EPoRM5ONCSW9nU1wxz6Y6FIr1hMMzC58xR5w41wS9XO0DD47fl8tN8y6EV4iKGOZT560cnNXKKNTaEs/s320/inst-cyoc11.jpg" width="223" /></a></div><br />
Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-15022685228538533682011-08-29T13:59:00.002-07:002011-08-29T14:06:17.843-07:00Making a pen using a CYOC blank (Part 4)<i>This is part four of the series, "Making a pen using a CYOC blank".</i><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_BXDFMKESij6Ffl5_PZfgCs_RqiTj1LPWUDYV_K7DpLe2pRN85OW9MLzmFm-d-4f2yAiug2sx7XmF-avY1FU4VlIK5gvDiuS1QO_ZeFp0eGZ9H1anOuFAya4YfV_bbhD55TFsm5uRdEA/s1600/inst-cyoc07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_BXDFMKESij6Ffl5_PZfgCs_RqiTj1LPWUDYV_K7DpLe2pRN85OW9MLzmFm-d-4f2yAiug2sx7XmF-avY1FU4VlIK5gvDiuS1QO_ZeFp0eGZ9H1anOuFAya4YfV_bbhD55TFsm5uRdEA/s320/inst-cyoc07.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Once the drilled out holes have been smoothed with acetone, it's time to "reverse paint" the blanks.<br />
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Reverse painting a blank is to paint the inside of the drilled hole, as opposed to painting the tubes that go inside. Reverse painting avoids problems like glue showing and color/texture changes at glue boundaries.<br />
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In the first photo you see some red spray paint, two part epoxy glue, and nitrile gloves. I hold the blank in my hand while spray painting, and hate getting paint on my hands. The gloves are awesome.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpD7Azl4V0JJD78QtN8HlgZCxu29w-VLsXvCJ4SsFgItfaGPPf2ePzrk6SjYHq1fYuvNn6z9yfuEO6dQcJ1nXcSQ2t202WcksWdA6rBe6hs-3TZFjjfGKB1SkLaJmz0eNGpEyCegmBN40/s1600/inst-cyoc08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpD7Azl4V0JJD78QtN8HlgZCxu29w-VLsXvCJ4SsFgItfaGPPf2ePzrk6SjYHq1fYuvNn6z9yfuEO6dQcJ1nXcSQ2t202WcksWdA6rBe6hs-3TZFjjfGKB1SkLaJmz0eNGpEyCegmBN40/s320/inst-cyoc08.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Really could have used a helper here to actually focus the camera...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I generally apply two coats 30 minutes apart. that's enough time to make the first coat sticky. One coat would probably be OK, but you won't know if there's a problem until AFTER it is turned and polished, and the pen is ready to be assembled. That's too late to fix it easily. I'd rather be safe than sorry.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0FQZ-L8oTWWAPMmTbJHiADl2q5xZpwMGmWGOIM64cH3zPIBDDrYh-2YSIUG6sZgNXTTiO-lnjm-8iFdwkNCrQZDZ19hKRNNDYwgg0ePdyqpCsG1xNYkKGjUGU42MNZiPu103uwLLNBzM/s1600/inst-cyoc09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0FQZ-L8oTWWAPMmTbJHiADl2q5xZpwMGmWGOIM64cH3zPIBDDrYh-2YSIUG6sZgNXTTiO-lnjm-8iFdwkNCrQZDZ19hKRNNDYwgg0ePdyqpCsG1xNYkKGjUGU42MNZiPu103uwLLNBzM/s320/inst-cyoc09.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Once painted, the blanks will rest for 24 hours to allow the paint to cure. If the paint doesn't cure fully, it can come off when inserting the tube. So be patient!Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-73481966246562060072011-08-28T10:25:00.001-07:002011-08-29T14:05:33.061-07:00Making a pen using a CYOC blank (Part 3)<i>This is part three of the series "Making a pen using a CYOC blank". </i><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJDcJRRtVNG1ONAgIYfrK4VmO_ziu4n9kQ83zPB8ewm1KJzrFb88-udcWVsFujA-UgHQI8EVVEQ0XZIFn5m8eSR7K00V4aSWj3oi-e80cR4Qdet9BevPspzFzz_8QckTYJgYRp2xOlhrA/s1600/inst-cyoc05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJDcJRRtVNG1ONAgIYfrK4VmO_ziu4n9kQ83zPB8ewm1KJzrFb88-udcWVsFujA-UgHQI8EVVEQ0XZIFn5m8eSR7K00V4aSWj3oi-e80cR4Qdet9BevPspzFzz_8QckTYJgYRp2xOlhrA/s320/inst-cyoc05.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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The way I get rid of the drilling marks, scratches, scuffs, and so on, is with acetone.<br />
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Soak a cotton swab (aka "Q-Tip") with acetone, and rub vigorously inside the drilled holes. It'll probably take several soaks to get everything smooth. You will end up with the hole being hazy white. This is OK, because the paint will saturate the haze, making it disappear.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrSUu_FYE20-6Wc1DBvPtc-OrqG_6QH9zclBMQERFrnwEP4UDNa4Wf44Lc1F8aQaIoBwUxseI6h3pJMqx4ca7h0yOxEg31DZqX8EaKVyvBSkGNjA5u1zLc1zolfL7qA8bo6lpXyqF1G5g/s1600/inst-cyoc06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrSUu_FYE20-6Wc1DBvPtc-OrqG_6QH9zclBMQERFrnwEP4UDNa4Wf44Lc1F8aQaIoBwUxseI6h3pJMqx4ca7h0yOxEg31DZqX8EaKVyvBSkGNjA5u1zLc1zolfL7qA8bo6lpXyqF1G5g/s320/inst-cyoc06.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><i><br />
</i>Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-87593487836616856122011-08-26T12:27:00.001-07:002011-08-29T14:05:12.721-07:00Making a pen using a CYOC blank (Part 2)<i>This is part two of the series "Making a pen using a CYOC blank". </i><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtnFIhTGMOfm7HRkmZYD8MEmZBoyHf6biIPU9e62gqWZe-E0mXBq5bQozn3bN1QJXQZ0WyHDmL7-CChRtYdV61XFUUfELnA6GnZaWNt6soOQoURsf1UGdg3yBazLInQfo5Dkmk2CXrN4/s1600/inst-cyoc02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtnFIhTGMOfm7HRkmZYD8MEmZBoyHf6biIPU9e62gqWZe-E0mXBq5bQozn3bN1QJXQZ0WyHDmL7-CChRtYdV61XFUUfELnA6GnZaWNt6soOQoURsf1UGdg3yBazLInQfo5Dkmk2CXrN4/s320/inst-cyoc02.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drilling on the lathe makes it far easier to get high precision holes than with a drill press.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table><i><br />
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Now to drill the holes for the brass tubes. I prefer drilling on the lathe because of how easy it is to get precision. Fiddling with the drill press to get a perfectly aligned table, then mounting and holding the blank, all take too much time. But with the lathe, it's "mount and go".<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgME2q_i3pXGSLjnC3o7glGz-Ud8F2BPbPpPj9nV3um5EiHnLhI0JUF1RAzXlabU0h5QfhTKbIu5uMzbRWCMVDDvt1qdJyMIEzjFyH0LvXPdM-UfnuWRV2Xuj8mS-82bo81oMUQ_tmFzEg/s1600/inst-cyoc03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgME2q_i3pXGSLjnC3o7glGz-Ud8F2BPbPpPj9nV3um5EiHnLhI0JUF1RAzXlabU0h5QfhTKbIu5uMzbRWCMVDDvt1qdJyMIEzjFyH0LvXPdM-UfnuWRV2Xuj8mS-82bo81oMUQ_tmFzEg/s320/inst-cyoc03.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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Because the walls can get pretty thin with the El Grande kit, going slow and pulling the bit out frequently to clear the waste from the bit and allowing everything to cool are very important.<br />
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The end result is well drilled holes, with some scratches and such from the drill bit. I'll clean those up in the next installment.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTAD4Ecmxchu3fMmIZ0RHWHXNnh3ajQq2Ndg5nSU7c8P-w-rXooR40EvOmuruO2agLGlf2glBin4J1-_yRe38gOiQeNKgWOUMaAnzmtcu4-rivam6XNffJuiVInQtz7KgUR2B-gRW0H2I/s1600/inst-cyoc04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTAD4Ecmxchu3fMmIZ0RHWHXNnh3ajQq2Ndg5nSU7c8P-w-rXooR40EvOmuruO2agLGlf2glBin4J1-_yRe38gOiQeNKgWOUMaAnzmtcu4-rivam6XNffJuiVInQtz7KgUR2B-gRW0H2I/s320/inst-cyoc04.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><i> </i>Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-12496259376930471562011-08-21T08:10:00.001-07:002011-08-29T14:04:53.975-07:00Making a pen using a CYOC blank (Part 1)<i>This is part one of the series "Making a pen using a CYOC blank". </i><br />
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<i>CYOC = Choose Your Own Color<br />
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A new pen blank design that allows the penmaker to choose the contrasting color when making the pen, rather than when purchasing the blank. <br />
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CYOC uses a swirl of one color and clear poly resin. Reverse painting the drilled holes permits the penmaker to choose any contrasting color he or she desires. </i><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSgvnf33jzjwVTuQN_qqlWApCFUrsvpKfvFjb_bi39o7sOTJCa6p0eEdlz2AYO4YcSO1d8KN09LwQtIUku3iHajhFcqoR5vJAg3_YNkmqqYJmR20XEJGuKeEQ2PGmaZBApKsg81HLDG50/s1600/inst-cyoc01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSgvnf33jzjwVTuQN_qqlWApCFUrsvpKfvFjb_bi39o7sOTJCa6p0eEdlz2AYO4YcSO1d8KN09LwQtIUku3iHajhFcqoR5vJAg3_YNkmqqYJmR20XEJGuKeEQ2PGmaZBApKsg81HLDG50/s320/inst-cyoc01.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using a sled on the tablesaw makes cutting small parts like pen blanks safe and easy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
First, cut the blank to a smidge larger than the tubes. In this case, I'm cutting the blank to match the tubes for an El Grande Elite kit.<br />
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The blank is left a bit larger so it can be trimmed square to the tube later.Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-21503866660383567512011-07-03T11:25:00.000-07:002011-07-03T11:25:06.539-07:00New Resin Design: Choose Your Own Color!<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_QPbt_CMVGwq1q9OttIsNxUIXgEIMbP7O2tzweyV_x73UJV9QQ7RmnBy_EqzhHoG8i-iSbbhvTSJmnvX8az3shMXu9vfSwUxzNw31i3lOdXlpfw6ZyJ65FTVSR4j05FBzgRNs9Ye-wvs/s1600/opposites.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_QPbt_CMVGwq1q9OttIsNxUIXgEIMbP7O2tzweyV_x73UJV9QQ7RmnBy_EqzhHoG8i-iSbbhvTSJmnvX8az3shMXu9vfSwUxzNw31i3lOdXlpfw6ZyJ65FTVSR4j05FBzgRNs9Ye-wvs/s320/opposites.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These two pens are made from the same blank!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>In honor of the 80's juvenile books that I loved so much, Choose Your Own Adventure, I have named this style of resin, "Choose Your Own Color". (CYOC from now on...)<br />
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<a name='more'></a>The pens in the photo above are both made from the same blank. Well, the same batch of blanks anyway.<br />
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The blank is made from polyester resin by swirling a blue colored resin with clear. This allows ANY color to be added after the fact by reverse-painting the hole drilled for the pen tube.<br />
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This photo shows a raw blank, un-machined, against two different backgrounds. Keep in mind that this 3/4" thick blank is FAR thicker than any pen barrel would be!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLHK5lxGaWO2Mw5H72PiIr-vH-9r9cflXCwOarbzBI6IEpjiRCRPKMEodRPg-8L3XQSOYOVYZJx_Wj5N4sqWyuyNZgx5lJEhivulg0mgAt0abOZl3IQbjOu7XjR7inLl6979RxGxk84S8/s1600/cyoc01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLHK5lxGaWO2Mw5H72PiIr-vH-9r9cflXCwOarbzBI6IEpjiRCRPKMEodRPg-8L3XQSOYOVYZJx_Wj5N4sqWyuyNZgx5lJEhivulg0mgAt0abOZl3IQbjOu7XjR7inLl6979RxGxk84S8/s320/cyoc01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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The difference is immediately visible even at this thickness. But the transparency is made, ahem, "clear" with the following backlit photo:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWm1CeSDZm2Ry0D6UTHbzsbE5IjdeuYVyA4TaMXbX5Hmsh0VfQ2gwS6UgszjnMA-SbK_ZjE1hieXEYaHW4Ti60YVCh54IHHB8D7imdjOtG4zzgDgmdG3ahOAPvBvxPJwpP64SSG48d06U/s1600/cyoc02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWm1CeSDZm2Ry0D6UTHbzsbE5IjdeuYVyA4TaMXbX5Hmsh0VfQ2gwS6UgszjnMA-SbK_ZjE1hieXEYaHW4Ti60YVCh54IHHB8D7imdjOtG4zzgDgmdG3ahOAPvBvxPJwpP64SSG48d06U/s320/cyoc02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
As you can see, this frees the penmaker up to choose any contrasting color! he (or she) can use white, black, red, even a different shade of blue, to back up the blue swirls in the blank.<br />
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Another great benefit is the blue swirls are shown with amazing depth, thanks to the three dimensional effect of having a clear resin alongside the colored swirl. Impossible to photograph, but it's amazing in the hand.<br />
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In the photo at the start of this post, I painted the inside of the drilled holes with different colors. The black really brightens the blue swirls, while the white gives it a more pastel look. Also, the cap of the dark pen is far thicker than the lower barrel, showing the difference that thicker barrels can have on the look of the pen. (The dark pen is a modified slim, while the light pen is a "Diva", with a similar thickness to the "Sierra" or "Gatsby".)<br />
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I'll be making these available via http://www.mantadesigns.com soon, in many colors.Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-73440173707584877502011-06-20T18:43:00.000-07:002013-07-07T13:39:47.629-07:00Review: Diablo Framing Blade<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf-lSDjFNbUsnngvOLIH6QdVMX0slKoVZNK7U4fpoFgOF6kwGWwboyvQ4UwgssY4vOFrkc0xIQX5ntdC1qUL1LcXvuzsw31lGQZyQtlx-4rC2V18AWSXH-Hr9BRrFAnIpMv7ih6ityqj0/s1600/diabloblade01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf-lSDjFNbUsnngvOLIH6QdVMX0slKoVZNK7U4fpoFgOF6kwGWwboyvQ4UwgssY4vOFrkc0xIQX5ntdC1qUL1LcXvuzsw31lGQZyQtlx-4rC2V18AWSXH-Hr9BRrFAnIpMv7ih6ityqj0/s320/diabloblade01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I don't use my circular saw very often. I usually prefer my table saw or my miter saw. But I *do* use it occasionally.<br />
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I was at the BORG (Big Orange Retail Giant) a while back and they had a two pack of these<a href="http://amzn.to/13uLNjG" target="_blank"> Freud Diablo Framing blades</a> for $9.95 so I grabbed 'em. My cheap $3 Harbor Freight blade was getting dull.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>When I'm using a circ saw, I'm usually not needing precision, instead going for quick chops of 2x4's or something similar. So I was satisfied with the performance of the HF blade in my cheapie circ saw from Wal-Mart.<br />
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Until I tried the Freud blade.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ0keAS8PeESfhxRmJ1BjGHLJCzCZ-9audLaDLd5d5gzWOHaKlgUo80rMG_volUfm4K_V4IDTJKRHHUfTsuEIgiT3rT92TW7YJG3ugqlo0b_QOIURpLFgv-bGplQDMQWGuDY1Tk_bZC8Y/s1600/diabloblade03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ0keAS8PeESfhxRmJ1BjGHLJCzCZ-9audLaDLd5d5gzWOHaKlgUo80rMG_volUfm4K_V4IDTJKRHHUfTsuEIgiT3rT92TW7YJG3ugqlo0b_QOIURpLFgv-bGplQDMQWGuDY1Tk_bZC8Y/s200/diabloblade03.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
I needed to trim some overhanging bits of pine from a lapped joint. I could have used a router with a bearing bit to cut them, but precision wasn't required. So I went for speed: My circular saw.<br />
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I loaded it up with the Freud Diablo Framing 7 1/4" blade and started cutting. I was impressed with how clean the cuts were on the endgrain! Smooth as glass on the endgrain, with light tearout where it brushed the long grain.<br />
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Please note that the cut marks are from my crap saw or my technique, NOT the blade.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_J-uk9vG4JlHZDLY7nHnruBEQZkCDeC1Fo68JQ-1AJnBdWg5LChjKEHvSan_lHexEyMLDWHhRc9LyL5fRE7VbKaaWpccYO1dKLpFn2_Iczl04hjY2jRfyxa2SZuryKh0jMRGhrMEtOqE/s1600/diabloblade02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_J-uk9vG4JlHZDLY7nHnruBEQZkCDeC1Fo68JQ-1AJnBdWg5LChjKEHvSan_lHexEyMLDWHhRc9LyL5fRE7VbKaaWpccYO1dKLpFn2_Iczl04hjY2jRfyxa2SZuryKh0jMRGhrMEtOqE/s200/diabloblade02.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
It cut quickly and smoothly through the pine, something my HF blade never did. In fact, that HF blade would bog down my wimpy 12 amp saw when cutting pine 2x4's. But not the Freud Diablo.<br />
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These are my first Freud blades, and I'm now impressed enough to replace my 9" Delta Industrial blades when they (finally) wear out with a Freud.<br />
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My only complaint is the red paint/coating on the blade WILL come off on the wood if the blade body rubs against it. You can see some of that on the wood pic above. Otherwise I'm VERY happy with my purchase!Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-269784797790284006.post-35162408486934624582011-06-18T21:45:00.000-07:002011-06-18T21:45:41.187-07:00More on the Delta 46-700 Lathe<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPhUr4ky_gad15kbM0CmXhC9yGtFaPEoRExZEa3wB8txdO7CTgFsHL4readn31q-RQedb2D8Omy89Iv2xvYZWxWkahdhrmHayPNmxEILpBB4JyxHrdFD7jVcFKnVsxl6UtvvZns1AbR7o/s1600/DSC_6584.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPhUr4ky_gad15kbM0CmXhC9yGtFaPEoRExZEa3wB8txdO7CTgFsHL4readn31q-RQedb2D8Omy89Iv2xvYZWxWkahdhrmHayPNmxEILpBB4JyxHrdFD7jVcFKnVsxl6UtvvZns1AbR7o/s200/DSC_6584.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><br />
The top photo is the "before" shot. You can't tell, but the pulley half closest to the motor is warped. The thing was CAST warped! The bored hole is not square to the face. Grrr... It caused some vibration as mentioned in my previous post about this lathe.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNtTRnDGwznqz9iJjnmc0a5GTaDfaoujuOFAduWWf8YGsXuScqFDB64AWQgoDtcjPVSx1cjq0zSWYLULna2Jv9kCTAVS1HEcmSo5ah8Gp7tLvmB9lcVE05YyPA6_s-c9XP2PQAUVAWtPM/s1600/DSC_6585.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNtTRnDGwznqz9iJjnmc0a5GTaDfaoujuOFAduWWf8YGsXuScqFDB64AWQgoDtcjPVSx1cjq0zSWYLULna2Jv9kCTAVS1HEcmSo5ah8Gp7tLvmB9lcVE05YyPA6_s-c9XP2PQAUVAWtPM/s200/DSC_6585.JPG" width="200" /></a>I ordered a new pulley half and belt from dewaltservicenet.com ($50 for the two with overnight shipping!)<br />
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I installed the new pulley half and found I have to practically disassemble the headstock to replace the belt. ARRGGHH! I decided to see what the new pulley would do with the old belt.<br />
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I gave it a quick run through the gears and was happy with what I saw. Much improved. But something that bothered me the last time I did this got me again. The two pulleys are not aligned! As you can see in the top photo, the tail half of the headstock pulley is further upstream than in the bottom photo.<br />
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I loosened the set screw and the pulley slammed south. That spring is pretty darn strong. I stuck a large open end wrench between the casting and the pulley to lever the pulley back north. I did this several times, tweaking the alignment, as it changes a bit depending on the RPM setting. I decided I wanted it rock solid at the highest setting, when I'm taking my finishing cuts. So it's aligned for 2500rpm and a bit off at 500rpm.<br />
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I'll tell you, this made a HUGE difference. I can still feel some vibration, which I attribute to the belt, but it's very minor, and doesn't seem to translate to the spindle at all.<br />
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I've read about others who have used link belts with this lathe. I was surprised, as I thought the pulleys would crush the link belts. I may have to give one a try and see how it goes. If a link belt works, it may solve both the tiny vibration that's left, and the tear-the-bloody-headstock-apart-just-to-change-the-belt issue.Donhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08392942634149650261noreply@blogger.com1